Saturday, December 27, 2014
26.12.2014 : Day 20
I am certain that nobody was the slightest bit peckish, but breakfast was arranged for 0600, departure for 0700. The French-Canadian cyclists were already gone, probably by 0430, Philippe had predicted, and the travellers from the other two overland trucks were also scurrying around their respective vehicles.
Today's bank-holiday roads were practically empty, and we made good time to the Nkhotakota game reserve, where the road lost its tarmacadam surface, Malaika lost speed, and roof hatches were thrown open. Only the die-hards stuck it out much more than a quarter of an hour, as it was already baking hot, long before 1000.
The main feature of the day, I guess, was the border crossing between Malawi and Zambia, another 50 bucks gone, for the privilege of having the supercilious girl, on her cellphone possibly arranging the night's love life, utterly ignore our expensively assembled documentation. I am told that I must accept and ignore such charades because 'this is Africa'. I have no doubt that the phrase will still be in use 30 years from now; countries merely paying lip service to the standards which will drag them out of the third world will find it extremely difficult ever to be anything other than third world. Rant over.
A swift stop at Chipata's retail park variously got us a few (Zambian, different from Malawian, but still printed by Waddington's) Kwachas from the ATM, fries and a vanilla milk shake from Steers, a Golden Arches lookalike, or potions for warding off Bilharzia from the apothecary.
It began to rain buckets as we loaded back into Malaika, and thoughts began to turn to putting tents up in the rain, on sodden ground and in the dark....
Today's bank-holiday roads were practically empty, and we made good time to the Nkhotakota game reserve, where the road lost its tarmacadam surface, Malaika lost speed, and roof hatches were thrown open. Only the die-hards stuck it out much more than a quarter of an hour, as it was already baking hot, long before 1000.
The main feature of the day, I guess, was the border crossing between Malawi and Zambia, another 50 bucks gone, for the privilege of having the supercilious girl, on her cellphone possibly arranging the night's love life, utterly ignore our expensively assembled documentation. I am told that I must accept and ignore such charades because 'this is Africa'. I have no doubt that the phrase will still be in use 30 years from now; countries merely paying lip service to the standards which will drag them out of the third world will find it extremely difficult ever to be anything other than third world. Rant over.
A swift stop at Chipata's retail park variously got us a few (Zambian, different from Malawian, but still printed by Waddington's) Kwachas from the ATM, fries and a vanilla milk shake from Steers, a Golden Arches lookalike, or potions for warding off Bilharzia from the apothecary.
It began to rain buckets as we loaded back into Malaika, and thoughts began to turn to putting tents up in the rain, on sodden ground and in the dark....
25.12.2014 : Day 19
LATE breakfast, 0800! The day was already sunny, hot and sparkling. Further, it was already clear that pretty much the whole Malawian world, at least the car-owning part, was about to descend on Kande Beach to enjoy Christmas Day on the sand and in the surf.
There has been much discussion among our group about the wisdom of bathing in Lake Malawi, given the rather conflicting advice surrounding bilharzia. You pays yer money and you takes yer choice.
Finding that some sort of signal has been known to turn up at the site office every now and then, I nip over there to try and send the 5 or 6 blog entries which have been queuing up for days. Each para takes an eternity, and photos at least double that. Thus, a 20-minute job takes 2.5 hours.
The morning having thus been taken up, it is soon time to reconvene at the truck - we have been asked to keep away until 1300 while the team prepares for lunch - and there is just time for a cooling shower beforehand. The effort that the team, of just 3, remember, has put in is utterly remarkable. It would have been tricky for three to have prepared that standard of meal in a regular kitchen, never mind out of the back of a truck. Prawn cocktail, Leg of lamb, chicken stuffed with blue cheese & cranberry, a second chicken stuffed with olives, cauliflower/broccoli au gratin, stuffed pumpkin, roast potatoes, sweet potatoes, maize fritters, carrot & pineapple salad. With both pink and regular champagnes, crackers, etc, etc, etc. All washed down to the accompaniment of Michael Bublé and Simon & Garfunkel, inter alia.
After that lot, sweet course had to take a rain check, and we all disappeared for two hours, to return at 1700 for Mike's mum's special of steamed golden syrup pudding with added extra dried fruit & nuts. Oh and chocolate ice cream.
The beach began to clear just as soon as the sun went down, and all was quiet by 2000, except for the turn entertaining those at the bar. Thankfully there were only two other overland trucks on the campus overnight, and the night was not the slightest bit rowdy. An electric storm added the son et lumière to round off the day/night.
There has been much discussion among our group about the wisdom of bathing in Lake Malawi, given the rather conflicting advice surrounding bilharzia. You pays yer money and you takes yer choice.
Finding that some sort of signal has been known to turn up at the site office every now and then, I nip over there to try and send the 5 or 6 blog entries which have been queuing up for days. Each para takes an eternity, and photos at least double that. Thus, a 20-minute job takes 2.5 hours.
The morning having thus been taken up, it is soon time to reconvene at the truck - we have been asked to keep away until 1300 while the team prepares for lunch - and there is just time for a cooling shower beforehand. The effort that the team, of just 3, remember, has put in is utterly remarkable. It would have been tricky for three to have prepared that standard of meal in a regular kitchen, never mind out of the back of a truck. Prawn cocktail, Leg of lamb, chicken stuffed with blue cheese & cranberry, a second chicken stuffed with olives, cauliflower/broccoli au gratin, stuffed pumpkin, roast potatoes, sweet potatoes, maize fritters, carrot & pineapple salad. With both pink and regular champagnes, crackers, etc, etc, etc. All washed down to the accompaniment of Michael Bublé and Simon & Garfunkel, inter alia.
After that lot, sweet course had to take a rain check, and we all disappeared for two hours, to return at 1700 for Mike's mum's special of steamed golden syrup pudding with added extra dried fruit & nuts. Oh and chocolate ice cream.
The beach began to clear just as soon as the sun went down, and all was quiet by 2000, except for the turn entertaining those at the bar. Thankfully there were only two other overland trucks on the campus overnight, and the night was not the slightest bit rowdy. An electric storm added the son et lumière to round off the day/night.
Thursday, December 25, 2014
24.12.2014 : Day 18
Christmas Eve already. The first part of today's transfer to Kande Beach, still on the shore of Lake Malawi, is splendid. The road, for some reason none of us quite understands, does not follow the shoreline, as might seem the obvious civil engineering solution, but climbs into the mountains inland and drops back down again. The climb is so slow and sedate that Gary suggests we open the roof hatches on Malaika and watch the journey from up there. We have to close them again as the speed picks up on the down slope.
Mzuzu is the first stop, at a horribly heaving supermarket, where victuals are purchased and 'Secret Santa' gifts purchased for fellow travellers (no, dear reader, we have not escaped Christmas entirely - sigh). Only one more hour is necessary to get us to Kande Beach, a clone of previous beachside set-ups, although maybe a little larger. It has a reputation as a party site, but only one other overland truck shows up for the overnight, so we are excused the Butlin's Redcoat Syndrome. Phew. A dinner (massive portions yet again) has been set up in the camp restaurant instead. Pleasant.
Alan's mental state is called into question yet again, when he fails to find two of the four small gifts he has Secret-Santaed for Trevor. Beyond annoying. Bloodhound-level searching does not find them; they must have somehow fallen out of the plastic carrier back at the supermarket.
Mzuzu is the first stop, at a horribly heaving supermarket, where victuals are purchased and 'Secret Santa' gifts purchased for fellow travellers (no, dear reader, we have not escaped Christmas entirely - sigh). Only one more hour is necessary to get us to Kande Beach, a clone of previous beachside set-ups, although maybe a little larger. It has a reputation as a party site, but only one other overland truck shows up for the overnight, so we are excused the Butlin's Redcoat Syndrome. Phew. A dinner (massive portions yet again) has been set up in the camp restaurant instead. Pleasant.
Alan's mental state is called into question yet again, when he fails to find two of the four small gifts he has Secret-Santaed for Trevor. Beyond annoying. Bloodhound-level searching does not find them; they must have somehow fallen out of the plastic carrier back at the supermarket.
23.12.2014 : Day 17
During the night there had been a couple of quite severe electrical storms, with lashing rain, quite entertaining, but I would have preferred the sleep. It was quite a surprise to see so little standing water in camp at reveille.
Over breakfast, Trevor suggested a do-your-own-thing group 4x4 trip up the mountain to Livingstonia, a settlement founded by Dr. Robert Laws, to celebrate and further the work of David Livingstone, and quite an amazing place. Apart from schools and church (very Scottish Presbyterian), there are a technical college, hospital and university, as well as housing for the employees of those institutions.
Trevor brokered a deal with some village lads to take us up the steep, 20-hairpinned 'road' in a Land Rover Defender of dubious vintage. A fun day costing $15 per head. It would have cost more at Blackpool or Atlantic City and been tamer. In truth, the Defender was little short of a wreck. Standing was the best option in the back. Those seated had a difficult ride indeed.
Also squeezed into the day were the waterfall and a lovely lunch, knocked up from scratch in double-quick time by a most affable lady who lived in Bournemouth not so long ago.
Over breakfast, Trevor suggested a do-your-own-thing group 4x4 trip up the mountain to Livingstonia, a settlement founded by Dr. Robert Laws, to celebrate and further the work of David Livingstone, and quite an amazing place. Apart from schools and church (very Scottish Presbyterian), there are a technical college, hospital and university, as well as housing for the employees of those institutions.
Trevor brokered a deal with some village lads to take us up the steep, 20-hairpinned 'road' in a Land Rover Defender of dubious vintage. A fun day costing $15 per head. It would have cost more at Blackpool or Atlantic City and been tamer. In truth, the Defender was little short of a wreck. Standing was the best option in the back. Those seated had a difficult ride indeed.
Also squeezed into the day were the waterfall and a lovely lunch, knocked up from scratch in double-quick time by a most affable lady who lived in Bournemouth not so long ago.
22.12.2014 : Day 16
How strange: this was the most rustic camp site so far, but with the finest showers & warmest water, and at 0500 too (!), of them all.
Today was a loooong day, incorporating a border crossing into Malawi, predicted to be 12 hours on the road. Happily, we ticked along just fine, and the border formalities - will they EVER go paperless? - took well less than the usual hour or more. A huge number of impounded cars have turned the Malawi side into a rust-heavy parking lot. Many have been there years already.
First impressions of Malawi are that it is more prosperous than Tanzania. The buildings seem more tailored, the roads of a slightly better standard and people tending more to smarter dress. We are booked to stay at Chitimba Camp, on the shore of Lake Malawi, and we arrived, in stinking heat, at 1700, one hour less on the road than predicted.
Cabins were offered as a very reasonable upgrade, and there was the usual guesswork about how hot the structure would be, cf the tent, during the night. The cabin got the nod, and .... yes, you got it: WRONG choice! Of the ten night-time hours, Al spent one on the bed horizontal, two pacing around or gazing through the mozzie gauze and the remainder sat on the porch steps, praying for breeze.
Today was a loooong day, incorporating a border crossing into Malawi, predicted to be 12 hours on the road. Happily, we ticked along just fine, and the border formalities - will they EVER go paperless? - took well less than the usual hour or more. A huge number of impounded cars have turned the Malawi side into a rust-heavy parking lot. Many have been there years already.
First impressions of Malawi are that it is more prosperous than Tanzania. The buildings seem more tailored, the roads of a slightly better standard and people tending more to smarter dress. We are booked to stay at Chitimba Camp, on the shore of Lake Malawi, and we arrived, in stinking heat, at 1700, one hour less on the road than predicted.
Cabins were offered as a very reasonable upgrade, and there was the usual guesswork about how hot the structure would be, cf the tent, during the night. The cabin got the nod, and .... yes, you got it: WRONG choice! Of the ten night-time hours, Al spent one on the bed horizontal, two pacing around or gazing through the mozzie gauze and the remainder sat on the porch steps, praying for breeze.
21.12.2014 : Day 15
First a repetition of the two-hour dirt road back to Iringa. It seemed longer. The town looked even more bustling this morning than the previous occasion, and it was even more evident just how much the population has embraced the tin roof. Almost ubiquitous.
There had been an earlier, tentative suggestion that we stop at Isimila Stone Age Site, and fortunately the group voted to stop. It turned out to be way more extensive and interesting than the small-scale curiosity I had been expecting. Erosion has created an other-wordly, film-set landscape, complete with fragile sandstone pillars, some topped off with resistant boulders.
After lunch, taken at the site, the remainder of the afternoon was devoted to reaching The Old Farmhouse Campground at Kisolanza by 1700ish. It had been chucking it down for about an hour, so the unexpected option of upgrade to basic, but rather cute, cabins was a definite boon. The ground had become just a touch damp.
There had been an earlier, tentative suggestion that we stop at Isimila Stone Age Site, and fortunately the group voted to stop. It turned out to be way more extensive and interesting than the small-scale curiosity I had been expecting. Erosion has created an other-wordly, film-set landscape, complete with fragile sandstone pillars, some topped off with resistant boulders.
After lunch, taken at the site, the remainder of the afternoon was devoted to reaching The Old Farmhouse Campground at Kisolanza by 1700ish. It had been chucking it down for about an hour, so the unexpected option of upgrade to basic, but rather cute, cabins was a definite boon. The ground had become just a touch damp.
20.12.2014 : Day 14
A mini-brekkie was planned for 0600, and a departure for Ruaha NP at 0630. Thus, up at 0530ish. The campsite owner, a bit of an entrepreneur, headed up the tour in his ageing Landcruiser along with his chum in an equally-ageing Land Rover. Trevor felt compelled by loyalty to travel by Land Rover. Cue national anthem.
Breakfast Part Deux came along mid-morning at an unexpectedly modern building in the middle of the park. Local home-made bread, jams and fruit. And, for Brits, the ubiquitous Rosie Lee, naturally.
Until now, the day had been manageably warm. From this point on, it pretty much soared, and stayed there. And, by full-day game drive, they meant FULL-day game drive, so Al was in überwilt mode long before arrival back at camp at 1800. Highlights of the day were the river crossing inhabited by numerous crocodiles, hippos, marabou, kingfishers and a fish eagle. The day also turned up numerous young, of all species.
Michael had the night off from cookhouse duties, as dinner was prepared by our hosts. Splendid it was, too.
A note about photos: you may have to wait awhile! The signal is so universally weak that even 20 lines of text are taking a quarter of an hour to arrive in the blog. You can imagine what even a tiny picture would take.
Breakfast Part Deux came along mid-morning at an unexpectedly modern building in the middle of the park. Local home-made bread, jams and fruit. And, for Brits, the ubiquitous Rosie Lee, naturally.
Until now, the day had been manageably warm. From this point on, it pretty much soared, and stayed there. And, by full-day game drive, they meant FULL-day game drive, so Al was in überwilt mode long before arrival back at camp at 1800. Highlights of the day were the river crossing inhabited by numerous crocodiles, hippos, marabou, kingfishers and a fish eagle. The day also turned up numerous young, of all species.
Michael had the night off from cookhouse duties, as dinner was prepared by our hosts. Splendid it was, too.
A note about photos: you may have to wait awhile! The signal is so universally weak that even 20 lines of text are taking a quarter of an hour to arrive in the blog. You can imagine what even a tiny picture would take.
19.12.2014 : Day 13
Gary told us it would be so, and it certainly came to pass, a mountain pass, as it happened. The route was such a change from what had gone before, and it was no time at all before the flatlands gave way to the Uluguru Mountains.
The huge preponderance of HGV traffic meant that our average speed dropped considerably as we crawled up the pass behind tanker after truck after tanker. It would seem that accidents involving poorly-maintained and/or recklessly-driven HGVs are a daily occurrence. Certainly there was one very lucky boy on his way down the pass, whose tanker, possibly only minutes earlier, had left the road on a left-hander. Substantial trees had prevented him from enjoying the short way down. Why ARE there so many tankers anyway? There do not seem enough vehicles for them to be servicing. Except other tankers. The same applies to fuel stations. Why?
Lunch was taken in a true picnic setting under trees, a change from the rushed fuel-station forecourt experience. At Iringa we left the well-metalled highway and onto a dirt road to Chugera Campsite for two overnights. Shortly after erecting the tents and hanging out some laundry, the rain came down in stair rods, and tents were, for the second time this trip, manhandled into new positions, under cover, more for the fact that the ground around the tents would quickly have become a sea of mud than for any suspicion that our tents are not waterproof.
Tomorrow a full-day game drive in Ruaha NP.
The huge preponderance of HGV traffic meant that our average speed dropped considerably as we crawled up the pass behind tanker after truck after tanker. It would seem that accidents involving poorly-maintained and/or recklessly-driven HGVs are a daily occurrence. Certainly there was one very lucky boy on his way down the pass, whose tanker, possibly only minutes earlier, had left the road on a left-hander. Substantial trees had prevented him from enjoying the short way down. Why ARE there so many tankers anyway? There do not seem enough vehicles for them to be servicing. Except other tankers. The same applies to fuel stations. Why?
Lunch was taken in a true picnic setting under trees, a change from the rushed fuel-station forecourt experience. At Iringa we left the well-metalled highway and onto a dirt road to Chugera Campsite for two overnights. Shortly after erecting the tents and hanging out some laundry, the rain came down in stair rods, and tents were, for the second time this trip, manhandled into new positions, under cover, more for the fact that the ground around the tents would quickly have become a sea of mud than for any suspicion that our tents are not waterproof.
Tomorrow a full-day game drive in Ruaha NP.
18.12.2014 : Day 12
Today it was farewell to The Indian Ocean. No more sea until Namibia over on the west coast, weeks from now. Although we have planned to get away from Sunset Beach at a sensible hour, and do not therefore need a reveille much before 0700, the pink brigade alongside are all up and doing before 0500. Sleep is well and truly over.
The morning is to be taken up by the grind back across Dar-es-Salaam's traffic, three hours with luck and a following wind. A small hiccough, that of Urs sneaking a photo of a trader out of the side window, lost us about three quarters of an hour, when said trader took umbrage and mithered to the local gendarmerie. The truck was boarded and directed to the pen, where an overblown fine was extracted from driver Gary.
The remainder of the drive saw us behind many, many painfully slow vehicles, and the predicted 6-hour journey took over 9. Once again, there was an unexpected level of sophistication at the campground, Tann-Swiss, an establishment started some years ago by a Swiss couple. Great showers with real hot water. Not that hot water is particularly de rigueur when it's still over 32 degrees C at 1830. Good for those in laundry mode though.
The mozzies showed up tonight, but the temperature was much better for sleeping, and most of the group achieved some catching-up. Tomorrow, we head for mountains, ergo cooler still?!
The morning is to be taken up by the grind back across Dar-es-Salaam's traffic, three hours with luck and a following wind. A small hiccough, that of Urs sneaking a photo of a trader out of the side window, lost us about three quarters of an hour, when said trader took umbrage and mithered to the local gendarmerie. The truck was boarded and directed to the pen, where an overblown fine was extracted from driver Gary.
The remainder of the drive saw us behind many, many painfully slow vehicles, and the predicted 6-hour journey took over 9. Once again, there was an unexpected level of sophistication at the campground, Tann-Swiss, an establishment started some years ago by a Swiss couple. Great showers with real hot water. Not that hot water is particularly de rigueur when it's still over 32 degrees C at 1830. Good for those in laundry mode though.
The mozzies showed up tonight, but the temperature was much better for sleeping, and most of the group achieved some catching-up. Tomorrow, we head for mountains, ergo cooler still?!
Thursday, December 18, 2014
17.12.2014 : Day 11
How on Earth AiF can afford this level of accommodation on the income they are getting from us travellers is beyond me; the room at The Safari Lodge, so unprepossessing from the outside, was splendidly spacious and appointed. Never has aircon been so welcome.
Breakfast is taken on the shaded rooftop terrace, and is neither particularly plentiful nor sophisticated. Nobody, however, gives a monkey's, as it is already far too hot to be eating a great lot. A simple omelette does the biz, and out into the maze we all go again. The plan is to do one's own thing until about 1400, when we reassemble back at the hotel, gather our goodies from communal storage in Room 101 (yes, really) and start the cattle drive for the 1530 ferry(ies) back to the mainland. Quelle surprise, it is hot. The breeze does a poor job of disguising it, and we all collapse like greasy spots into an under-sized minibus back to Sunset Beach Camp, where Gary, Michael and the truck have been waiting for us since we first set off for Zanzibar five days ago.
Michael could not get a certain je ne sais quoi for a menu he wanted to try, so we got to try his fish 'n chips instead, a pretty damn fine substitute. Especially as there were two varieties of fish, guacamole and lashings of his special coleslaw.
Another group bus was alongside us tonight, a frightful pink colour. We are told that 27 are aboard, and sleep in a sort of lateral sleeping tube either on the roof or inside across the daytime travelling section. HOW many?! We seven feel decidedly superior in Malaika, until we stick our heads inside our tents, which have spent the last five days and nights heating up toastily. Morpheus will clearly not be taking us until the early hours. There being no point in showering, only to start dripping again almost immediately once under canvas, I sleep in my filth. Scandalous.
Breakfast is taken on the shaded rooftop terrace, and is neither particularly plentiful nor sophisticated. Nobody, however, gives a monkey's, as it is already far too hot to be eating a great lot. A simple omelette does the biz, and out into the maze we all go again. The plan is to do one's own thing until about 1400, when we reassemble back at the hotel, gather our goodies from communal storage in Room 101 (yes, really) and start the cattle drive for the 1530 ferry(ies) back to the mainland. Quelle surprise, it is hot. The breeze does a poor job of disguising it, and we all collapse like greasy spots into an under-sized minibus back to Sunset Beach Camp, where Gary, Michael and the truck have been waiting for us since we first set off for Zanzibar five days ago.
Michael could not get a certain je ne sais quoi for a menu he wanted to try, so we got to try his fish 'n chips instead, a pretty damn fine substitute. Especially as there were two varieties of fish, guacamole and lashings of his special coleslaw.
Another group bus was alongside us tonight, a frightful pink colour. We are told that 27 are aboard, and sleep in a sort of lateral sleeping tube either on the roof or inside across the daytime travelling section. HOW many?! We seven feel decidedly superior in Malaika, until we stick our heads inside our tents, which have spent the last five days and nights heating up toastily. Morpheus will clearly not be taking us until the early hours. There being no point in showering, only to start dripping again almost immediately once under canvas, I sleep in my filth. Scandalous.
Wednesday, December 17, 2014
16.12.2014 : Day 10
From Nungwi beach bungalows after 3 nights to the Hotel Safari Lodge in Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site an hour up the coast. Its main claim to fame is that it was the last bastion of slave trading. It is also both the chief town of the island and the exit ferry port back to Dar, due for Day 11.
The word labyrinthine was invented for Stone Town. The group, minus Ken, struck down by too much midday heat the previous day, took on a 3-hour walking tour. It is a certain fact that we would have been utterly lost after ten minutes, had the guide not had built-in GPS for twisting back streets going nowhere in particular. The one highspot that we all tried to commit to memory was Lukmaan Restaurant, an eaterie that had been recommended by Trevor & Jennie's son. And yes, we did find our way back again later, to find that it was indeed all it had been cracked up to be. Fabulous value and wonderful quality. Best discovery of the trip thus far? Probably.
The word labyrinthine was invented for Stone Town. The group, minus Ken, struck down by too much midday heat the previous day, took on a 3-hour walking tour. It is a certain fact that we would have been utterly lost after ten minutes, had the guide not had built-in GPS for twisting back streets going nowhere in particular. The one highspot that we all tried to commit to memory was Lukmaan Restaurant, an eaterie that had been recommended by Trevor & Jennie's son. And yes, we did find our way back again later, to find that it was indeed all it had been cracked up to be. Fabulous value and wonderful quality. Best discovery of the trip thus far? Probably.
Tuesday, December 16, 2014
15.12.2014 : Day 9
Day 9 shaped up pretty much the mirror image of Day 8. It seemed more than sensible to stay well away from the daytime glare, given that Days 10 & 11 promise more exposure to the midday and afternoon sun. I am sure that I will eventually acclimatise; let's hope it doesn't take the entire 8 weeks. On the plus side, there are far, far worse places to vegetate than Nungwi beachside on Zanzibar.
Dinner was again an experimentation with what the local population might patronise. To be kind, we will call it a qualified success. The ambience and music were both good. The food took over an hour and a half to arrive, and was cold throughout when it did. But, if you don't experiment, you don't discover. Some you win ....
This was the last night at Nungwi. Now on to Stone Town for the last night on Zanzibar.
Dinner was again an experimentation with what the local population might patronise. To be kind, we will call it a qualified success. The ambience and music were both good. The food took over an hour and a half to arrive, and was cold throughout when it did. But, if you don't experiment, you don't discover. Some you win ....
This was the last night at Nungwi. Now on to Stone Town for the last night on Zanzibar.
Monday, December 15, 2014
14.12.2014 : Day 8
A lazy day hiding from the (to Al, but nobody else, apparently) intense sun. I got the lie-in and late breakfast, not emerging from the beachside breakfast room until nearly 1100, something of a departure from the dawn risings hitherto.
The day passed languidly, either by the pool or under the cold shower. Any movement around the site was a furtive dodging and skipping between shade patches, a curious but necessary self-preservation. Dinner was à huit again, this time at Mamma Mia a couple of hundred yards along the beach. Kingfish was the 'catch of the day' - superb.
The day passed languidly, either by the pool or under the cold shower. Any movement around the site was a furtive dodging and skipping between shade patches, a curious but necessary self-preservation. Dinner was à huit again, this time at Mamma Mia a couple of hundred yards along the beach. Kingfish was the 'catch of the day' - superb.
Sunday, December 14, 2014
13.12.2014 : Day 7
Today Zanzibar. This requires the usual early start; we are after the 0800 ferry. Actually there are two ferries involved. The first, minor, one gets us to a point where we walk three-quarters of a mile or so to the second, the main 0930 crossing to the island.
On arrival at Stonetown, a minibus whisks us off to a spice farm. By far the best aspect of this arrangement is the aircon in the bus, as Al is beginning to look like last week's daffs, wilting and far from his chipper self. Probably socially not at his best either. Had I expected hot? Of course. Tis The Dark Continent, after all. Had I expected to run like a tap for hours on end? No. Acclimatisation has to be the way to go. And soon would be good.
We are to stay in beach-side chalet accommodation for a few nights' R&R. The complex has a decent pool and unexpectedly strong wifi, maybe the last for a while.
The group decides to meet up at 1900 and stroll the beach, to search out dining opps. If there is better fare available than the garlic prawns I get for about 8 quid, I should be gobsmacked. Utterly delicious.
I fancy a lie-in tomorrow.
On arrival at Stonetown, a minibus whisks us off to a spice farm. By far the best aspect of this arrangement is the aircon in the bus, as Al is beginning to look like last week's daffs, wilting and far from his chipper self. Probably socially not at his best either. Had I expected hot? Of course. Tis The Dark Continent, after all. Had I expected to run like a tap for hours on end? No. Acclimatisation has to be the way to go. And soon would be good.
We are to stay in beach-side chalet accommodation for a few nights' R&R. The complex has a decent pool and unexpectedly strong wifi, maybe the last for a while.
The group decides to meet up at 1900 and stroll the beach, to search out dining opps. If there is better fare available than the garlic prawns I get for about 8 quid, I should be gobsmacked. Utterly delicious.
I fancy a lie-in tomorrow.
Tactics
I am thinking that it might be a good wheeze to avoid sending photos embedded in text, as this could possibly be a reason for the aforementioned gremlins. For a while at least I will send any pictures as separate entities.
Saturday, December 13, 2014
12.12.2014 : Day 6
Today was promised to be a marathon. The drive out to Dar-es-Salaam is apparently usually something of a nightmare. It's not all that far, just 250 miles, but things grind to a halt at the outskirts of Dar, and it typically takes 4 hours to get across to the beachside campsite.
Breakfast was at 0500. We started away at 0600, and it was evident all through the day's schedule that there was to be no hanging about at the comfort stops. Ken did not even have time for his regulation coffee. Time was constantly of the essence. Halt, inspect the plumbing, grab a Coke or similar from the kiosk and off again. Lunch was taken on the fly, we having put something together after breakfast at The Elephant Motel in Same.
Dar was indeed chaotic, as regards traffic, on arrival, but not quite as appalling as feared. The 12-hour day had been whittled down to a mere eleven. A pair of Sennheisers and much Staple Singers, Eagles, Carole King & Northern Soul had made the day almost fly by.
Tents went up within yards of the beach fence, but then had to be humped to a new setting just as we were sat at the dinner table waiting to be served. Meals had to be taken back to the kitchen because the Gringo diners were stumbling through the darkness, two to an already erected tent. I have had better hors d'oeuvres.
Breakfast was at 0500. We started away at 0600, and it was evident all through the day's schedule that there was to be no hanging about at the comfort stops. Ken did not even have time for his regulation coffee. Time was constantly of the essence. Halt, inspect the plumbing, grab a Coke or similar from the kiosk and off again. Lunch was taken on the fly, we having put something together after breakfast at The Elephant Motel in Same.
Dar was indeed chaotic, as regards traffic, on arrival, but not quite as appalling as feared. The 12-hour day had been whittled down to a mere eleven. A pair of Sennheisers and much Staple Singers, Eagles, Carole King & Northern Soul had made the day almost fly by.
Tents went up within yards of the beach fence, but then had to be humped to a new setting just as we were sat at the dinner table waiting to be served. Meals had to be taken back to the kitchen because the Gringo diners were stumbling through the darkness, two to an already erected tent. I have had better hors d'oeuvres.
Day 5 - Missing Text
First stop is to be a cultural & arts centre, which turns out to be exceptional, and thereafter a top-up call at Nakumatt supermarket in Arusha for Michael to get the makings of the next few breakfasts, lunches & dinners. And Alan to grab some Bombay Mix. Sorted.
Not much more to say about the remainder of the day in truth. The goal was what it was, the town of Same, near Moshi. The Elephant Motel gave us the opportunity for an upgrade, which everyone took, especially as the rate was so reasonable. It also gave the 'opportunity for wifi', which (how might I put this politely?) promised more than it delivered. We soldier on.
Not much more to say about the remainder of the day in truth. The goal was what it was, the town of Same, near Moshi. The Elephant Motel gave us the opportunity for an upgrade, which everyone took, especially as the rate was so reasonable. It also gave the 'opportunity for wifi', which (how might I put this politely?) promised more than it delivered. We soldier on.
Thursday, December 11, 2014
Gremlins II
In addition to the blogs setting off in the wrong order, you need to know that the second half of some postings have been chopped off: you are not getting the whole of my purple prose!
Gremlins
Problems seem to have arisen. The lack of signal during the early days saw me writing blog pages as drafts, which then queued up, in order to take flight once a signal came along. These seem to have then got scrambled into the wrong order, with later blogs setting off before early ones.
Now it seems they are not going at all. This blog might be not long for this world.
Now it seems they are not going at all. This blog might be not long for this world.
07.12.2014 : Day 1
Out of Nairobi pretty gently. It is Sunday and the main road south towards the Tanzania border, and then on to Arusha, is far from frenetic, but busy enough. Stop after only a couple of miles to top the truck up with diesel, and we grockles hop out to grab some water and other goodies for the day. First impression of Kenyan highways? What are all these sleeping policemen doing here? It's a major trunk road!
Every hamlet along the way has its row of tiny roadside businesses, all in premises so small and ramshackle that it seems impossible for anything to actually get completed in there. Carwashes are also conspicuous in their number. Oh and weddings, dozens of them. In Arusha a longer stop at a supermarket for victuals pretty much rounds off the day, and we complete the final few miles to the snake park campsite for overnight. As it turns out we get put up in basic chalets rather than under canvas.
Wednesday, December 10, 2014
10.12.2014 : Day 4
09.12.2014 : Day 3
Tuesday, December 09, 2014
08.12.2014 : Day 2
Saturday, December 06, 2014
06.12.2014 : Day 0
A not-too-late breakfast as it happens, then a stroll to locate the neighbouring hotel where this evening's orientation meeting will take place. This turned out to be about 300 yards away. Or, to put it another way, just through the back fence!
After an old fogey's afternoon nap, it was soon time to take a shower and head back to The Fairview for the meeting. We are to be seven until Victoria Falls, where two more will join for the second half to Cape Town. Of the seven, however, one does not get into NBO until late tonight, so missed the meeting.
One of the meeting's main points was to stress that wifi signal is unreliable to say the least. Do not hold your breath.
Meeting over by 1900, so it was then dinner and early kip. Away by 0745ish tomorrow.
After an old fogey's afternoon nap, it was soon time to take a shower and head back to The Fairview for the meeting. We are to be seven until Victoria Falls, where two more will join for the second half to Cape Town. Of the seven, however, one does not get into NBO until late tonight, so missed the meeting.
One of the meeting's main points was to stress that wifi signal is unreliable to say the least. Do not hold your breath.
Meeting over by 1900, so it was then dinner and early kip. Away by 0745ish tomorrow.
Obligatory First-Morning Balcony Photo
Friday, December 05, 2014
05.12.2014 : Day -1
All went pretty slickly today, it must be said. Left the hotel on the 0730 Hoppa, bagdropped without delay, got called to the plane bang on time, sat in 31C, felt the tug start the push-back and then .... it broke down, leaving the plane askew across the apron. The new tug appeared after a half hour, and that was exactly the lateness of the plane into NBO. It certainly didn't feel like 8 hours; the entertainment on board nowadays is superb.
The queue to buy entry visas was mercifully short, although $50 (!), and getting a taxi a breeze. The Panafric proved to be 20 minutes and 2100KES (about 17 quid) away. In the room by 2345. Lie-in tomorrow; just a greeting meeting to attend at 1700.
The queue to buy entry visas was mercifully short, although $50 (!), and getting a taxi a breeze. The Panafric proved to be 20 minutes and 2100KES (about 17 quid) away. In the room by 2345. Lie-in tomorrow; just a greeting meeting to attend at 1700.
Thursday, December 04, 2014
04.12.2014 : Day -2
Down to Heathrow without drama. Checked into a monochrome Terminal 5 hotel for an overnight, in order to save an early-morning start to a drive down the M40/M25 tomorrow. A surprisingly good bowl of pasta finished the day off. Tomorrow, the flight.
Monday, November 17, 2014
What's in Store?
Tuesday, November 04, 2014
The Tour in Detail
If you should wish to get into the detail of the trip, take a look at:
http://www.africa-in-focus.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/AIF-Brochure-Main-2014-Ebook.pdf
Page 8 will give you what you need, The Azania Tour, Nairobi to Cape Town.
http://www.africa-in-focus.com/cms/wp-content/uploads/AIF-Brochure-Main-2014-Ebook.pdf
Page 8 will give you what you need, The Azania Tour, Nairobi to Cape Town.
Prepping: A Month To Go
The trip is booked and paid for, the flights (BA, into Nairobi & out of Cape Town) in place, LHR hotel and arrival hotel in Nairobi sorted, malaria tablets bought, jabs sequence begun and insurance ticketty-boo. Yet to do: complete jabs cocktail; book Cape Town accommodation; organise US Dollars (recommended currency to carry - a better exchange apparently); find the most effective and efficient mozzie spray known to man; buy other incidentals e.g money belt; pack; get to LHR on 04/12; fly on 05/12; attend the greeting meeting on 06/12; head out of Kenya and into Tanzania on 07/12; mildly panic about all the things I have forgotten to do.
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